2021 EHS Holiday to the Scottish Borders
June 3rd to 6th 2021

Background
It was with relief and perhaps a little trepidation that we (a year late!) settled into the comfortable coach and headed north. Would we be shunned by the Scots? Would we be safe? Would Covid rules spoil it? By day two all worries had faded. The hotel and staff were excellent, even allocating a private dining room for our sole use at dinner. The coach and driver were good and with only 33 on board it felt relaxed. If a coach can be welcomed with open arms, our was – the first one folk had seen!

David Hurrion, our tour manager had driven from Devon to Ramsbottom to join us from the start. A very knowledgeable horticulturalist, he was not stumped by any plant question or identification and is also now accomplished at holding onto wayward escape hatch covers in a coach roof!

Thanks to everyone who each wrote about one of the garden visits that we made.

Thursday June 3rd
Carmichael Mill (by Janet Faulkner)

We broke our journey north with two visits on this first day before reaching the hotel. Our first garden visit was to Carmichael Mill in Lanarkshire. This garden was developed over the last 30 years, consisting of ornamental trees, shrubs, herbaceous plants and a vegetable and fruit garden. The mill stream flows through the centre and archaeological remains of the mill provide a backdrop for the candelabra primula, tulips and narcissi.. 
 

Wandering paths gave views of the river Clyde running along it outer edge. The owner of the garden joined us on our walk through the garden, explaining the history of the site and pointing out interesting features. One unusual plant was Purple Toothwart (Lathraea Clandestina), which grows in carpets of glossy, leafless flowers that appear in early spring. The plant is a parasite that has no photosynthetic parts and the richness of the display is afforded entirely from the resources of the host plant on which the Toothwart feed. Surrounded by many trees, the garden slowly revealed its many features as we wandered through the paths enjoying the tranquillity and the sound of the river.

   
Kailzie Gardens (by Martin Cox)
Our second garden visit was Kailzie near Peebles, which was gearing up for the summer season after previously being closed for Covid.
The garden is at 700 ft above sea level which means that weather conditions have considerable impact on the planting. Frost can be a threat for much of the year. To help compensate for this one of the main features is the walled section which has lovely lawned areas with island beds containing a a variety of shrubs and herbaceous plants. Every one in the group was delighted to see the striking blue Mecanopsis (Himalayan poppy) in full bloom. Other beautiful features were the twin herbaceous borders, with hedge ‘backdrops’ each one reflecting the other’s planting.

  

In the nearby kitchen garden was a long conservatory with an interesting selection of more tender and exotic plants. The gardeners tending the fruit and vegetable areas were extremely friendly and ready to give advice and tips about growing crops. Of note was their system for growing sweet peas up strings supported by a strong wooden frame.

Outside the walled garden were large areas of wood and impressive vistas of the surrounding rolling countryside and with a large selection of specimen trees.

Friday June 4th
Portmore Gardens (by Penney Clissold)
The coach pulled into the yard at rear of an austere, red sandstone Jacobean style house. It was chilly and people hesitantly descended from the coach. The owner, Mrs Reid took us on a short walk to the lawn on the south side of the house. There, before us, was an amazing vista stretching to the Tweed valley and the hills beyond. What better reason for building a magnificent house in the 1850s. This was the entree to the fully refurbished Victorian garden begun in 1987.

   

It was Pandora’s Box. The valley sides were wooded with mature mixed woodland forming a protective crescent around the house. Pathways lined with azaleas, rhododendrons, roses and spring bulbs zigzagged through the trees providing further views. Lawn areas interspersed with water, hedges and fruit trees were adjacent to three sides of the house. Beyond was a contemporary, walled garden roomed with yew for the roses, clematis and vegetables. Here, a double central herbaceous border led to the refurbished Victorian glasshouse containing fruit trees, tender plants, pelargonium, fuchsias and a grotto complete with ferns and lilies. To the east of the walled garden was the Water garden with its little stream bubbling down to a pond and meandering paths through shrubs, specimen trees and meconopsis. The whole garden is planted using a limited colour palette with repeated plantings of very hardy species to create a harmonious uniformity throughout. There are numerous benches to remind us to take the time to sit and enjoy. A wonderful place truly five star.

Great Polish Map of Scotland (by Andy Warmen)

The Great Polish Map of Scotland is nestled behind Barony Castle Hotel, near Eddleston in Peebleshire.  It is in landscaped surroundings and is the world’s largest 3-D map of a complete nation.  It was commissioned by Edinburgh hotelier Jan Tomasik who bought the property in 1968.  He was a Pole who had been stationed there during 1940 to help prepare the defences of the east coast of Scotland against invasion.  After the war he remained in Scotland, marrying a Scottish nurse.

The map was created between 1975 and 1979 as a thank-you to the Scottish people for hosting the Polish troops. In 2010, the Charity ‘Mapa Scotland’ was formed to restore the structure and this was completed in 2017.

The map measures 50m x 40m and covers an area of 1590sq m.  It has been sculpted from concrete, is surrounded by water from the nearby ‘Fairy Dean’ burn and shows the whole of Scotland and outlying islands in relief form.  There is viewing platform allowing visitors to experience the full scale of the map from above and the whole area has been landscaped with paths, a stumpery and flowers.
In 2013 the map was granted ‘Historic Scotland Category B’ listed status.

 

Traquair House (by Barbara Kenny)
 
Traquair House is Scotland's oldest inhabited house and is full of history and legend. 

There are 100 acres of grounds and woods to explore including a maze planted in 1980 with over a hundred Leylandii and Cyprus trees. There is also a children's playground and croquet lawn.

Traquair -the name deriving from “tret”, a Celtic word meaning hamlet and “quair” meaning a stream with a winding course was a Jacobean stronghold and  has been on the current site since before 1107 when Alexander 1 of Scotland signed royal charter. It continued to be used by a long line of Scottish kings as a base where they could establish their authority. The court would visit and enjoy fishing, hunting and hawking in the Ettrick forest which surrounds the house. Wild cats ,wolf, wild boar and bear roamed at large inspiring the artists of the time whose work can be seen in mural paintings and needlework in the house.

Mary Queen of Scots stayed here and some of her possessions are still in the house. There was a strong catholic tradition which continued even after it became against the law and mass was said privately at the top of the house. You can still see the priest's room and the hiding hole with its secret stairway which allowed the priest to escape unseen . A Roman Catholic chapel was built next to the house in 1829 following the catholic emancipation act. The chapel is still used for mass and regularly hosts weddings ans christenings. One interesting fact I learned in the house is that the servants bells in the entrance hall all have a different ring . Even though there are names of rooms written under each bell they have a different tone because the servants could not read and would be alerted by the sound. In the kings room there is a bed where Mary Queen Of Scots slept  during her visit in 1566 with a cradle at the end of the bed for her young son who was later to become King James 1 of England. King George V and Queen Mary visited Traquair in 1932 and I was interested in a photograph of the wedding of Prince Andrew and Sarah Ferguson where one of the current family's children was a flower girl.

The house is still lived in by the family and although it has many historical aspects and memorabilia it is still a comfortable family home in parts. In the grounds there are craft workshops and a brewhouse which has been  making traditional Traquair ale since the 18th century.

A very interesting and worthwhile visit

Saturday June 5th
Carolside Gardens (by Eleen Bailey)
 Carolside House nestles in beautiful parkland in a sheltered valley near Earlston in the Scottish Borders. It is famed for its National Collection of old roses. We were met at the front of the charming 18th century mansion by the owner, who, on enquiring casually if anyone required the toilets, seemed mildly surprised at the number of hands that went up, after a one and a half hour journey! He led us all round to the rear of the house, and pointed the way to the main gardens for some and then took us through a conservatory stacked with very comfy-looking garden furniture - obviously the Tea Room. We then threaded our way through a little wonderland of old- fashioned children's' toys and dolls houses (these, he said, were his wife's hobby, she was presently looking for a castle for a grandson, deeming it more suitable for a boy than the doll’s house he requested). There were two old-fashioned toilets; we were obviously in the old servants' quarters. I should mention that our coach tour was the first in the Borders and places were having to change their normal routines because of Covid.

After that little adventure we all crossed the lawn to the main garden area. I entered the horseshoe-shaped walled garden at the top, with a vista towards an attractive glasshouse at the end. What can I say! This garden is stunningly beautiful. Lush plantings everywhere, all immaculate, no chewed hostas here. Wide gravelled alleyways with arches and garlands of climbers swinging between them. Box-hedged parterres surrounding everything. Roses, all in bud as yet, gave a promise of the delights to come.

 
   

Around the walls were gated arches leading to, on one side, pleasant woodlands and a riverside walk. Through the other side were several garden 'rooms', each enclosed by hedges and plenty of benches to linger on. A Herb garden, a Winter garden, lots of hellebores, a Secret garden, and an orchard. The whole place felt like an intimate oasis of peace and calm. I think it will become one of my favourite memories.

Abbotsford (by Mirdza Booth)
The house and walled gardens date back to 1822-1824 within the Regency period built by Sir Walter Scott and stand on the banks of the River Tweed.

On arrival we were given a map to follow. This shows how the gardens are divided into three distinct “Rooms” – The South Court – the impressive entrance to the house: The East Court – An ornamental lawned garden featuring stylised evergreen bushes shaped into cones situated adjacent to the house. – The Kitchen Garden.

The day was blue sky and hot showing the gardens colour in its best light.

The gardens played an important role in daily life, providing fruit, vegetables and medicinal and culinary herbs and flowers. The conservatory at the top of the garden was originally designed to grow citrous fruits but today is used as a nursery to grow exotic plants and flowers. The path leading to the conservatory at the top of the garden was impressive – especially the display of alliums (purple sensation). The walk around the walled garden passed through a stone arch into the kitchen garden growing an abundance of herbs comprising rosemary, sage, thyme et al. In the distance tall mature trees could be seen surrounding the house. There were various paths and one particular path at the side of the house led to colourfully stunning large Rhododendron bushes.

A cooler option was a very well organised ‘in – house’ visit where we were split into small groups each given specific times and all socially distanced. There was an abundance of information regarding the house, its contents and Sir Walter Scott and his family. The views from the house into the gardens were stunning.

Within the grounds could be found a visitor centre which contained an upstairs café. Here a few of us were very lucky to take a short break to relax and have a coffee and take in the higher-level views, from the upstairs balcony, of the surrounding and the distant house which could be mistaken for a castle. On this particular Saturday it was exceptionally busy as a traditional annual rare dog breed event was taking place. The event celebrated the dog breed ‘Dandie Dinmont Terrier’ which was Sir Walter Scotts favourite dog. There were small marquee stalls and a local band playing Scottish music and organised dog races.

Abbotsford (by Carole Dickinson)
We visited Abbotsford in the Tweed Valley (or Conundrum Castle) today the house of Sir Walter Scott, formerly known as Cartleyhole nicknamed Clarty i.e. muddy hole, built in the 19th century in  the Scottish Baronial style and designed and redesigned by himself.  It almost bankrupted him and it’s not surprising.    Set in the beautiful Tweed Valley the natural backdrop is spectacular.  The entrance hall was dark, wooden and full of weaponry, suits of armour and frightening gargoyles.  I got the feeling that if Sir Walter was around today he would have loved B&Q. 

The garden was compact with three separate rooms, a walled garden with a jousting style greenhouse in need of some repair.  The herbaceous borders were yet to bloom due to late frosts, but alliums were in bloom and very pretty.  The gardens rolled down to the south bank of the Tweed river  where salmon as large as 56 lbs have been caught.  Apparently the Tweed runs into England for about 4 miles.  In the woodland area rhododendrons and azaleas were in full flower and azalea mollis was at its best sweet smelling and vibrant.

If all that weren’t enough Jean and Phil managed to put on a dog show too, a celebration of a fictional dog in one of Sir Walter Scott’s novels.   The Dandie Dinmont a terrier breed and endangered, no legs, long body, shaggy hair with a long top knot used for hunting otters and badgers.  Adoring owners joined in racing with their dogs while a band entertained us and a Border Piper too (any excuse to get the pipes out).  The Border pipes are  different to the bagpipes, smaller and the bag is held under the arm and pumped, no blowing involved.

Not to forget the food a delicious bagel with salmon and cream cheese was obtained from the back of a horse box, clean though, not a dropping in sight.   I declined the vegan haggis bap - may be next time.

Big thanks to the organisation of Jean and Phil another success, amazing variety, great day, clear blue sky (they even manage to sort the weather),  what more could we have wished for.

I’m off now to read Ivanhoe and then Rob Roy if there’s nothing on the tele.

Harmony Gardens (by Phil Broughton)
The approach to these gardens, in the busy centre of Melrose exercised our coach driver’s skills when he found parked cars blocking his route and needed to make a long, narrow, winding reverse between cars and a wall!

This was not a conventional National Trust (Scotland) garden. Close to the Georgian House are lawns and small herbaceous borders but the greater part is a well tended a kitchen garden. Here we found a fascinating and initially puzzling feature: waist-high, cylindrical towers of sweet-smelling hay, encased in wire netting.  Careful prodding at the top revealed a central core of soil containing potatoes. The gardener at Priorwood also worked here and explained that this was their “first try”. The potatoes are in layers all the way down and are hoped to grow out sideways though the hay to create a potato tower.

It was a short but hot walk to Priorwood Gardens and long queues at the nearby ice cream shop didn’t deter most!

Priorwood Gardens (by Di James)
Priorwood Garden is close to the walls of the spectacular, partly ruined, Melrose Abbey. The garden is in three sections. The first is billed as a dried flower garden, but on our visit the most impressive flowers were a bed of tulips, including the blue-lilac bleu aimable, and the yellow muscadet.

The second section is shady woodland, including several tall silver birches.

The third section is an orchard, containing mainly apples, many being heritage varieties. Some of the trees are well established, but newly planted apples included Egremont Russet, Miller’s Seedling and William Crump.

 

Sunday June 6th
Floors Castle (Phil Broughton)

We were dropped off almost at the front door of the “castle”. This is really a house to which the 6th Duke of Roxburghe added flamboyant decoration – certainly eye-catching! We first had to organise ourselves into groups of six, each being allocated a time to go inside.

A ten minute walk from the house is a  huge walled garden. Prominent in this is a fruit cage which followed the flamboyant theme, being shaped like a crown. Creepers scrambling along chains hung high between poles around some beds were also quite a feature. Several of us spotted a very attractive, intense blue iris outlined in white. There was a small patch of what seemed to be a variety of welsh poppy with double flowers that I’d never seen before.

Just outside the wall is the Millennium bed, lined to one side by a long bank of pink rhododendrons. Less obvious was that behind this, a grass path led through a dazzling floral display of these bushes.

At 3pm our coach came to take us home after 4 days of perfect weather. Tour Manager, David was impressed by our local scenery, as our coach mistakenly returned via Belmont road. Last minute complications were avoided by suggesting to Mark our driver that Eagley Way might not be a good idea!.
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